Masha Popova’s highly anticipated autumn/winter 2024 collection, titled GLI$TEN, diverges from her subversive early Noughties roots and instead immerses us in the defining aesthetic of her formative teenage years in the 2010s. While animal prints, maximalist jewelry, and jeggings make appearances, Popova’s interpretation is far from literal. Through her distinctive lens, the chaotic styling of the era is transformed into a disheveled, attitude-laden narrative – complete with wet-look UGG boots.
Drawing inspiration from the perceived glamour versus the stark reality that independent brands often encounter in their nascent years, Popova deconstructs the flashy style tropes of past decades. Paparazzi imagery, cult series like Skins and The Bling Ring, all contribute to the “façade versus reality” theme of the collection – a sentiment deeply resonant with Popova as an emerging designer.
Continuing her exploration of experimental fabrications, the collection features innovative treatments such as silk devore mimicking leopard spots and matted faux-fur textures. Gold accents sprinkle throughout, elevating the aesthetic with a touch of cliché glamour.
The oversized plastic beads reminiscent of Y2K10 celebrity accessories are reimagined as swirling prints adorning sweatshirts and tees. Draped scarves and hoodie-tracksuits inspire the relaxed silhouettes, occasionally revealing neon ZHILYOVA lingerie underneath. Slimline jeggings take center stage with spliced cut-outs and twists, offering a modern take on nostalgic fashion.
Following her previous autumn/winter 2023 and spring/summer 2024 offering dedicated to monster trucks, Popova now steers into a different fast lane, unveiling a raw and nostalgic portrayal of fashion at London Fashion Week AW24.
