Loewe’s Fall-Winter 2026 show opened with an unexpected scene. Guests were welcomed by oversized sculptural animals created by artist Cosima von Bonin – a floppy-eared dog, a cheerful dolphin, and wide-eyed clams. These playful figures immediately set the tone for the collection. Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, the brand’s new creative directors, approach Loewe with a sense of curiosity and experimentation, bringing a lighter and more exploratory spirit to the house.
Following their colorful and inventive debut last season, the designers push their ideas further. Craft has always been central to their work – a philosophy that naturally aligns with Loewe’s heritage as a Spanish leather house built on artisanal expertise. This season, however, that craftsmanship expands into a dialogue with technology. Slip dresses appear as 3D-printed forms cast in latex, where every detail – lace edges, bows at the chest, and delicate pointelle patterns – emerges as embossed relief across the surface. Latex also shapes zip-front hooded coats that move along the runway with a smooth, almost buoyant rhythm.
A subtle water theme flows throughout the collection. Sporty parkas resemble the material of inflatable rafts, giving the silhouettes a sense of lightness and irony. Back in the studio, the designers even experimented with air pumps shaped like lobster claws – a detail that reflects the playful energy behind the process. Even more classic tailored wool coats are styled with inflatable scarves, while some skirts take on exaggerated volumes reminiscent of pool floaties. As McCollough explained, the collection grew from the simple pleasure of making.
Alongside these experiments, the designers continue to explore traditional materials. Bell-shaped jackets first introduced last season return in shaved and dyed brushed shearling. Wide-wale corduroy is also reinterpreted through shearling textures. For evening, halter dresses covered in long, shaggy fringes allow models to slip their arms inside as if seeking warmth. Another evening option features dresses composed of long loops of beads that echo the delicate floral patterns seen on daytime shirts – complete with small pockets placed below the chest.
This show also marked a milestone for McCollough and Hernandez as they presented the first menswear designs of their careers. Their ideas translate naturally across genders, maintaining the same focus on texture, proportion, and playful construction. A standout piece was a seemingly simple cotton parka in a rich ultramarine shade – understated, yet striking in its precision.
With each collection, the designers continue to define their own interpretation of Loewe. The combination of craft, technological experimentation, and subtle humor suggests a new visual language for the house – one that is evolving quickly and with confidence.
Source – Vogue.
